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Six Famous types of Hand Block Printing!

Hand Block: An Ancient yet Timeless Tradition!

The Hand Block Printing process involves engraving an intricate design on a wooden block, inking the design with fabric colors or with a resistant paste, and then using the block as a stamp on the fabric. Each pattern is stamped individually. The process is repeated to cover the entire fabric. The resulting design is a mirror image of the carving on the block. 

Hand Block Printing is a labor-intensive, time-consuming and highly skilled craft that requires precision and attention to detail. It takes years of patient practice to master the craft. However, the stunning final fabrics justify the effort and the time taken. The subtle gaps and overlaps are not imperfections but a beautiful souvenir of the tough hand-work of the artisans and give block printing its unique character. 

The two widely-used techniques of hand block printing in India are Direct Printing and Resist Dye Printing.  In direct printing, the fabric is first bleached then dyed and finally printed using carved blocks. First the outline blocks, and then blocks to fill in color are used. In the resist dye method, a resist paste is first imprinted and the fabric is then dyed to reveal the pattern on the untreated fabric. 

Six of the most famous types of Hand Block Printing practiced in India are:-

1. Ajrakh (Ajrak):- is a unique form of complex and detailed Block Printing, using multiple blocks to finish the same pattern. It is done on various kinds of cloths like Cotton, Modal and Silk with resistant-dye technique, mostly at Dhamadka and Ajrukpur, small villages in Bhuj, Kutch (Gujarat) and Barmer (Rajasthan).  Ajrak is probably one of the oldest continuous form of printing, indigenous to the sub-continent of India – tracing its origins back to Indus Valley Civilisation more than 4000 years ago.

2. Bagh:-  is an indigenous hand block printing technique that got its name Bagh District in Madhya Pradesh, where it is practiced most. It is direct hand block printing done with bright natural colors on Cotton, Silk, Chiffon and Lenin. The designs are inspired by paintings of the Taj Mahal, flowers, mushrooms and others. 

3. Bagru:-  is direct block printing that got its name from the village it originated from, Bagru in Jaipur district of Rajasthan.  It is characterized by the use of natural vegetable dyes, wooden hand blocks and a resist paste made of gum and lime. The prints are done on unbleached cotton fabric and feature simple yet elegant geometric shapes and floral patterns in earthy and muted tones mostly on cotton and silk fabrics. 

4. Dabu:- is a resist block printing technique, where a resistant mud paste is applied to the fabric before dyeing to create patterns. The mud paste is made from a mixture of mud, gum, and lime, which is hand-blocked onto the fabric in the desired pattern. The fabric is then dyed and the mud paste resists the dye and reveals the pattern. It is known for its earthy colors and intricate patterns, including paisleys, dots, and lines. 

5. Sanganeri:- is a direct block printing, like Bagru where cloth is first bleached, and then dyed with the desired color. After that block printing is done on borders with carved wooden blocks and then inside the borders. The main difference between the two is that Sanganeri print is done on a lighter color background while Bagru print is done on a darker background color. Bagru prints are done on black and red background whereas Sanganeri is done on white background.

6. Kalamkari:- is an ancient hand block style generally practiced on cotton or silk fabrics using a special tamarind pen and natural dyes. The craftsmen use their kalams(pens) to create the outline of the intricate designs with freehand drawing, hence the name ‘kalamkari’. The fabric is then dyed and finally, the outlines are filled with desired patterns using hand blocks. This technique is practiced in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh

Each style has its distinct characteristics and motifs that represent the country’s vast heritage and rich culture. When you buy these eco-friendly, sustainable hand-block printed suit fabrics or dress materials, you are helping the artisan in sustaining the craft! 

To buy from our Carefully Curated Collection of Ajrakh Hand Block Suits on Modal Silk Fabric please visit https://www.vassundhara.com/categories/ajrakhhandblock

and to buy Hand Block Cotton Fabrics from Sanganer and Bagru please visit https://www.vassundhara.com/categories/cotton

By Puja Malik