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Ajrakh

Ajrakh (Ajrak) is a unique form of detailed Block Printing done on various kinds of cloths like Cotton, Modal and Silk with resistant-dye technique, mostly at Dhamadka and Ajrukhpur, small villages in Bhuj, Kutch (Gujarat) and Barmer (Rajasthan).  Ajrakh is probably one of the oldest continuous forms of printing, indigenous to the sub-continent of India – tracing its origins back to Indus Valley Civilisation more than 4000 years ago.

Traditionally Ajrak is done in bi-chrome shades of deep crimson and indigo, bearing symmetrical patterns with interspersed unprinted white motifs. Ajrak fabric prints are recognized for complex mathematical and flower designs. The term “Ajrak”, may be derived from “Azrak”, meaning blue in Arabic, as blue happens to be the tone of the key colors in Ajrak printing.  

Ajrak Craft products are made with natural vegetable and mineral dyes.  Unlike other processes of printing on cloth, where the color is applied directly to the cloth, in Ajrak block printing, the fabric is first printed with a resist paste and then dyed. The technique of resist printing allows exclusive absorption of a dye in the desired areas only and prevents absorption on the areas intended to be left uncolored. 

Ajrak printing is comparatively a long process including many phases of printing and washing the fabric over and over again with various natural dyes and mordents. The raw fabric is pulled exhaustively through the water many times over, scoured, beaten, steamed, mordanted, printed with resist mud pastes, covered with powdered camel dung & ground rice husks and dyed in deep madder and indigo. The entire process can take up to two weeks resulting in the creation of the beautiful eye-catching patterns of the Ajrak.  

Authentic Ajrak printing is done by hand with hand-carved wooden blocks. Several different blocks are used to give the characteristic repeated pattern. Ajrakh designs are easily recognizable by their bold geometric repeats, in combinations of center field and border designs. The Ajrak print is employed within a grid, the repetitive pattern creating a web-like design or the central jaal. The borders are aligned both vertically and horizontally and frame the central field. Symmetry forms the core of the design and the intricate repeats of an Ajrak textile must be perfectly balanced. 

Making Ajrak hand blocks is a considerably challenging task since the pattern has to synchronize perfectly with the whole of the Ajrak cloth running in meters as well as cover various areas against dye. Crafts-mans and artisans of Ajrak printing have gigantic expertise, persistence and accuracy.

This craft was on a decline because modern, quicker methods of printing were replacing the slow and careful process of printing this traditional textile. Additionally, bright chemical dyes were replacing the natural, muted colors of Ajrak. However, with the efforts of craftsmen, various handloom enthusiasts and proponents of sustainable fashion and the subsequent increase in awareness among urban people, this craft is slowly gaining momentum. Since Ajrak is a sustainable and environment-friendly ancient craft, Vassundhara extensively promotes it.   

We source our Ajrakh Suit Fabrics from the best Craftsmen mostly from Ajrakpur & Dhamdka at Kutch in Gujarat.  To check our carefully curated collection of Authentic Ajrakh Traditional Indian Suit Sets and Stoles, please visit

https://www.vassundhara.com/categories/ajrakhhandblock

https://www.vassundhara.com/categories/stoles

By Puja Malik