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Dhakai Jamdani-The Majestic Weave of the Royals!

Dhakai Jamdani: The Majestic Weave of the Royals!

During the Mughal Era, intricate motifs were added to the plain muslin fabric, hand woven with the finest quality of cotton yarn, with almost 2000 years old weaving technique of Bengal. This ornately patterned fusion fabric “Jamdani” was originally named “Dhakai” after the City of Dhaka as it was traditionally woven around Dakha (in undivided India), an ancient textiles weaving center in Bengal Region. The luxurious Dhakai Jamdani fabric was used extensively in Mughal Court dresses. Jamdani, a Persian term persisted, since Persian was the official language used in the Mughal Courts. 

The state of West Bengal shares the same weaving heritage and Jamdani is woven on Hand Looms with hand-spun yarns in the state’s South Eastern weaving centers. 

What is Jamdani Weave? 

The Jamdani weave is a discontinuous, supplementary weft weaving technique where the standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the weaver incorporates supplementary weft with thicker threads often golden in colour to add intricate motifs in the otherwise subtle fabric.   Each motif is created separately with hands by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. 

The result is a complex mix of diverse mesmerizing patterns that appear to float on the surface of sheer Jamdani fabric. The pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric but is drawn on graph paper and placed underneath the warp. The process is considered one of the most sophisticated hand-weaving techniques in the world. From the fine yarn to finished highly breathable Jamdani Fabric, the whole process of weaving takes on an average of 5-6 weeks. Transmitted from generation to generation, the art of Jamdani weaving is perfect amalgamation of creativity, imagination and expertise. 

Jamdani Motifs

The designs of these elaborate Jamdani Motifs are inspired by nature and find expression in geometric forms. Each motif used in weaving Jamdani has a distinctive name based on what it symbolizes, such as

Butidar-Small flowers

Fulwar-Flowers arranged in straight rows

Panna Hajar-Thousand emeralds

Kalka-Paisley

Tersa-Diagonal patterns

Jalar-Motifs covering the entire fabric

Dhuria-Polka spots

Charkona-Rectangular motifs

Change in Craft with Changing Times

For centuries, Jamdani was limited to traditional ethnic wear only. However, today, this exquisite craft has evolved to integrate modern silhouettes as well. The use of bright colors is a comparatively newer addition to the conventional white and grey Jamdani. Now using bright shades of red, yellow, green, blue, purple and  vibrant metallic colors for motifs has become a distinguishable part of Jamdani weave. Over time the weave has evolved in other ways as well. The ancient elaborate, realistic motifs that used to give the effect of embroidery have been simplified so that the designs are now more modest, feasible, affordable and contemporary.  

Jamdani is considered one of the finest varieties of muslin and the most imaginative textile of Bengali Weavers. It has been a part of the cultural heritage of the Bengal region for centuries and has been captivating the attention of the discerning elite ever since. Jamdani weaving is also done by weavers in Banaras and Tanda (Fyzabad district) in Uttar Pradesh. 

In 2013, the traditional art of weaving Jamdani has inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity!

When you buy Sustainable, Environment-Friendly Jamdani Suits with Dupatta from Vassundhara you are not only contributing to saving the environment but this ancient weave too!  To check our Carefully Curated Collection of authentic, airy style, hand-woven Jamdani Suit Fabrics please check

https://www.vassundhara.com/categories/dhakai-jamdani

By Puja Malik